Better Beaters - Building Cars and Daily Drivers

 Still another trip to the wrecking yard!

This is the blower motor resistor module.

This time I was looking for a fan blower motor resistor module. This is the device that allows for the variable fan speeds. It consists of a series of resistors and a heat sink. It gets pretty hot when it's on. It's located inside the ventilation duct where it will be cooled as air from the blower flows over it. I forgot that this was an essential component. I've checked the blower motor for proper function with direct electrical current, it spun without any problems. But it still wasn't working under the control of the HVAC panel. I had reached out to the ROA's technical director for the eighth Gen Riviera and he reminded me that the resistor module was something to check. He also reminded me that the A/C compressor will not engage if the level of "Freon" is low. There is a low pressure sensor that prevents the compressor from engaging. Yes, I know that the system doesn't actually use old fashioned freon, but I'm comfortable with that term.

I checked on RockAuto and this resistor pack retailed for almost 40.00. I figured a wrecking yard unit might work, and it was only 7.99. Certainly worth a chance.

I found that my passenger seat was stuck in a raised and tilted back position and didn't respond to the switch. I tried to jump the seat motors with direct current without success. 

 

I pulled the seat motors, wiring harness and control switch from the donor car. It was an involved process, The seat is designed to be removed and installed when it's in the most forward position, exposing the rear mounting bolts. How could I do this without electricity to power up the seat? I found that the seat itself is bolted to the tracks with four bolts. After I unbolted the seat, I had enough access to remove the seat motors and wiring leaving the seat tracks in place. I was lucky that the seats final resting position allowed this access. I don't think that Pick and Pull will allow you to hook up a battery to power up the seats.

Note the plastic hooks on the panel.
I'll have more to say about those in a future post.

The window motor is located behind the 
door lever.

This is the motor that was mistakenly sent to me.

The first thing that I wanted to fix was the passenger window as it was very hot in the car, with limited ventilation. I carefully removed the door panel to gain access to the mechanical bits. I could see that the regulator looked okay. I unbolted the motor and checked the operation of the window. I found that I could easily pull the window up and down by hand. It moved smoothly and without any binding. I had a window motor that was previously sent to me by mistake, I had checked it for function and it was working fine. So I bolted that in. Now the window was moving as it should. I lubed all the linkage points that I could reach. 

Replacing the passenger power seat motor was a more involved process, though I was able to move the seat completely forward. The mounting bolts were rusty and the torx bolt heads had been previously damaged. I was able to hammer in a larger size bit that allowed me to loosen them. I completely removed the seat from the car and flipped it over to gain access to the tracks. I removed and replaced the tilting motor and attached the replacement harness and switch.  Then anxiously reinstalled the seat. I was quite relieved to find the seat motors responding to the new switch.

I had to remove the right front wheel to install the inner fender liner. I jacked it up enough to pull the wheel. The liner is a very large piece of surprisingly thin plastic that takes a lot of push in fasteners. I found that the stainless steel wheel opening trim that I got at the wrecking yard was sprung quite a bit. I straightened it out as best as I could, but it wouldn't rest close enough to the wheel opening. The mounting clips are unusual in that they don't securely grip the inner part of the trim. It looks as though the tension of the curved trim, when in place, exerts outward tension that helps secure it. It's kind of like an internal expanding snap ring.

Since my replacement trim is mangled and twisted a bit, it can't exert the proper tension, I tried mocking it up in place by clamping it with spring clamps, but it doesn't want to work with the trim clips. I have a couple of ideas, how to remedy this, but they're not something the Concours crowd would agree with.

The left side trim is still in place, though it was slightly creased by scraping against something in the past. The trim would spring out if I manipulated it. I don't want it popping off. So I decided to glue it in place with clear silicon caulking. 

You can see daylight in the trim gap.

This caulk will dry clear.

I taped it up securely.

Now it won't be going anywhere.

I flexed the trim away from the fender opening, then squeezed the caulk into the void. Then I flexed the trim as close as possible to the sheet metal, and taped it down until it dried overnight. In the morning I removed the tape and filled any voids that I found. That trim won't be coming loose any time soon. 

I have a couple of options for the right side.

My first option is to use a combination of double sided tape and clear caulk to attempt to glue it down, using the spring clamps to secure it while it dries. I might have to use a few small stainless screws to hold it in place. Using visible screws on trim is a big no no, it looks totally amateurish and crude. However, I have found a couple of spots where this was done on my car.  

I could substitute the right rear wheel trim up front, and use a cut piece of the "sprung" trim at the ends. This a better idea than it sounds, as it mounts to a plastic lip that slips inside the fender opening.

If I couldn't find any replacement trim I might have used some of that flexible, self adhesive, "chrome" trim instead. It might not be authentic, but it would be better than nothing. 

I plan on documenting this wheel trim procedure in a future post. I'll try to take plenty of pictures.

It's not my intention to butcher my car, or to bodge it up. But it also isn't my intention to freak myself out over every little failing. I'm going to handle repairs in the most reasonable, appropriate, and cost efficient manner that I see fit.

The Casa de Fruta was freshened up not too long ago.
It used to be the home of the "cup flipper."

I recently took the Riviera on a hundred mile drive through the country, out to the Casa de Fruta for breakfast. This restaurant is located on the Pacheco Pass Highway, SR 152. Before the highway was widened, it sat directly off the highway right of way.  This is kind of like a Route 66 type of establishment with shops and rides for the kids. It's also a big compound with a couple of smaller restaurants, a wine/gift  shop, produce stand, motel and RV park. It's worth a stop if you're passing through, and most importantly it serves up good food!

On the drive back home I stopped at a bookstore and heard an unfamiliar sound. It turned out that the fan motor was running! That was a pleasant surprise.